tank: Hanes, 2013
Custom tailoring is the most difficult work in the world. No other can be compared with it. I know because I have long experience of this work.
Sewn absorbs 100% attention and requires cerebration. No money can compensate for the costs. This is hard work! True ‘Magnum Opus’.
I saw, you have a lot of sewing machines and overlock machine. I never sewed the jersey because I didn’t have a good industrial overlock (besides it needs a maintenance) and I did not know how to cut jersey.
How do you do the patterns? If it’s a secret, please do not tell. :)
I know that good patterns is the great value (as chocolate or Coca Cola recipes) and the subject of industrial espionage.
In 1916, Chanel started using jersey in outerwear. Now jersey associated with industrial production. Tailoring of jersey in house conditions is unique and niche biz! I’ll say it again that you, Abbe, are Chanel of XXI.
i love love love to work with jersey. ever since i fell in love with jersey i hardly ever turned on my Singer industrial straight stitch after that. i thought about selling the machine, but i find that it is still very useful once in awhile, like for leather especially.
haa, i get lazier and lazier when it comes to patterns. i started with a basic set, measured by book. when i switched to jersey, i had to re-do them all, taking out the darts, etc.
but now it’s easy to trace and re-make new patterns with different specs– one more inch here, three more inches there, etc. so now i have a pretty big collection.
i am even lazier now though, i started draping jersey on the dress form instead– pin, mark, snip, sew… voilà, no more patterns!
very easy for me, but hard for others to copy, which makes me happy– plus every jersey drapes so differently. you will never find Geld Iaz signature “mock wrap” dresses knocked off at H&M. impossible to do in a factory. at least i think so, but maybe factories are more clever than i think.
when i had a store in 1997, there were no floor-length jersey dresses that you could wear to a fancy party but also could wear with flip-flops in the street if you prefer. and washable, no dry-cleaning!
chic women loved them, that was what made me so popular in SoHo. i got so many very rich clients who could afford to shop anywhere but came to meeee for my long jersey dresses.
pssh, now jersey dresses are everywhere, $30 at H&M. ridiculous.
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